Timeline of Northern Scotland

This blog provides a quick summary of the history of Northern Scotland, from the Mezolithic (Middle Stone Age) through to the present day.

Mesolithic – 8000BC to 4000BC

  • Meso means Middle Stone age
  • The first peoples to settle in Scotland
  • Hunter-gatherers
  • Seasonal camps in caves and small circular huts
  • Stone tools and arrowheads made from quartz, bloodstone from Rum, pitchstone from Arran
  • Use of dug-out canoes, moving by water easier than by land

Neolithic 4000 BC to 2500 BC

  • Neo means New Stone Age
  • Farming: both crops and pastoralists
  • Cattle rearing
  • Absence of fortification
  • Monumental architecture, henges, tombs and temples.
  • Evidence of ritual and art
  • Orkney became an important centre, influencing material culture in the south.
  • Depletion of tree cover

Bronze Age 2500 BC to 800 BC

  • Preceded by the Copper Age or Chalcolithic 
  • Stone continued to be used but with less craft
  • New important Bronze technology, dependent on trade routes across Europe and specialized knowledge. 
  • Bronze is made from copper and tin.
  • Changes in burial practice (tombs for high status). Social stratification more evident
  • More evidence of weapons
  • Genetic studies show evidence of a migration of war-like people, from the Pontic Step, across the North European Plain to Britain.
  • Bronze Age Britains are known as the Beaker People.

Iron Age – 800 BC to 400 AD

  • Worsening climate, colder and wetter
  • New metal technology, using raw materials that were more abundant but requiring much higher temperatures to smelt.
  • More defensive structures: forts, duns, crannogs and brochs.
  • Interaction with the Roman Empire. Samian ware was found at the Broch of Gurness!
  • Roman sources make reference to raiding by the Scots (a tribe from Ulster) and the Picts.

Roman Empire in Scotland – 78 AD to 400 AD

  • Flavian period. Agricola, Governor of Britain, pushed the northern frontier of the Roman Empire into Scotland.
  • Battle of Mons Grampus 84 AD, defeat of Caledonian tribes.
  • Hadrianic period 117-138
  • Antonine period 168-161
  • Retreat to the Hadrian wall at the end of the Antonine period.
  • The emergence of the Scots and Picts in the historical record, raiding and harassing the northern frontier. 
  • Severan period 193-235 – invasion into northern Scotland.
  • Fall of the Roman Empire in early C5

Dark Ages / Early Medieval 300 AD to 900 AD

  • Saxons, Angles, and Friesian mercenaries were brought into Roman Britain in C4 to defend against the Scots and Picts.
  • St Ninian brought Christianity to southern Scotland.
  • The Scots were an Irish tribe, from Ulster. They established a Kingdom in Argyll called Dalriada.
  • Columba was a Scot (a Prince) who brought Christianity to the west of Scotland.
  • Pictish Kingdom in Eastern and Northern Scotland, north of the Forth.
  • Viking raids in late C8. 
  • Establishment of the Kingdom of Scots, a merging of the Pictish and Dalradian kingdoms, in C9.
  • Orkney, Shetland, and the Western Isles became settled by the Norse, displacing the Pictish language, art, and material culture. 

Middle Medieval 900 AD to 1286 AD

  • Norse Earldoms were established in the Northern Isles, owing fealty to the King of Norway. 
  • Orkneyinga Sagas
  • St Magnus
  • Scotland is a poor underdeveloped place in the early part of this period.
  • David I of Scotland C12 establishes the first towns and brings Roman Catholicism to Scotland. This is called the Davidian Revolution. 
  • Creation of Royal Burghs.
  • Scotland becomes more integrated with the rest of Europe. 
  • Feudalism develops
  • Monasteries grow in significance and contribute to the Scottish economy.
  • Tension between the Norse and Scotland.
  • Alexander III defeated the King of Norway at the Battle of Largs in 1263. King of Norway dies in Kirkwall.
  • Alexander III dies 1286. The heir is an 8-year-old princess from Norway (Maid of Norway).

Late Medieval 1286 to 1500

  • Maid of Norway dies at the Bishop’s Palace in Kirkwall.
  • No clear heir leads Scottish Nobles to invite Edward I of England to adjudicate. 
  • Scottish Wars of Independence 1297 to 1328.
  • Establishment of the Stewart dynasty 1371 – 1513. 
  • James III married a Danish princess and Orkney and Shetland mortgaged in lieu of an unpaid dowry. The King of Denmark failed to pay the debt and the Northern Isles became part of Scotland in 1468.
  • The Western Isles and West Coast are a semi-independent Kingdom, a mixture of Norse and Gaelic cultures: the Kingdom of the Isles. 
  • Tension between The Scottish Kingdom and the Kingdom of the Isles.
  • James IV sought to establish control of the Highlands and islands. There were military incursions and the Lordship of the Isles was forfeit.
  • James IV died at the Battle of Flodden, and the English won.
  • Shetland and Orkney were involved in trade with the Hanseatic League. 

Renaissance and Reformation 1500 to 1707

  • The Renaissance brought changes to art, literature, music, education, science, and politics. 
  • Scottish influence in the West leads to disruption and strife. The end of the Lordship of the Isles leads to a power vacuum and a period of terrible clan violence. 
  • 1609 Treaty of Iona required Clan Chiefs to send their heirs to Lowland Scotland to be educated in English-speaking Protestant Schools. 
  • Reformation brings tremendous social change to Scotland. The Covenanters.
  • Scottish influence finally reached Orkney and Shetland when Mary Queen of Scot gave the Earldom of Orkney and Shetland to her half-brother, Robert Stewart 1533 to 1593. Robert and his son become hated in the north for the introduction of feudalism and their cruel treatment of islanders. This is the beginning of the end of the Norn language and Norse influence.
  • With the death of James V, we have the Union of Crowns under James VI of Scotland and Ist of England, 1603.
  • Failed Darian Adventure
  • Lots of trade between Shetland and Holland, for herring. Anglo-Dutch Wars led to the building of Fort Charlotte in Lerwick.
  • The Union of Parliaments in 1707 led to the creation of Great Britain.

Revolution and Modernity 1707 to present

  • Scotland goes through an agricultural and industrial revolution in the second half of the C18 century and in C19.
  • Scotland is involved in trade throughout the British Empire, particularly trade with the American Colonies.
  • Scottish Enlightenment is characterized by intellectual and scientific accomplishments.
  • Rural lowland Scotland is cleared through enclosure and agricultural improvements. Cottars and tenants moved to the cities.
  • Around 1800 the Highlands and islands reach a peak in population, supported by the potato, and Landlord schemes to generate income (kelp harvesting, fishing).
  • Later in C19, economic drivers lead to depopulation, emigration, and migration to Scottish cities.
  • 1840 Potato famine, although less acute than in Ireland, accentuates this trend.
  • Mid-C19 Scotland has become the most urbanized country in the world!
  • Resistance to Land-Lordism led to the Great disruption in the Church of Scotland and the establishment of the Free Church of Scotland in 1843. Later civic campaigns lead to the establishment of crofting rights in 1886.

Wreck of Danish Schooner at Sandwick, Feb 1900

That night was the most dark and desperate as I’d lived. For three days and nights, my five crewmates and I had suffered. Since capsizing off the Naze of Norway, a terrible gale had driven us across the North Sea to the Shetlands.  

So here we lay; our ship, The Hermann, wrecked on the rocks, battered by the waves and clinging to what remained of the mainmast. 

“We must get to shore, she’ll sink any moment”, said Captain Obersen. 

Above us, I could make out a cliff of black rock, 100ft high. The Hermann lay fore-and-aft along the cliff and rocked back and forth with the motion of the waves. With the rocking, the mizzenmast would strike the cliff edge with a fearful knocking, then swing away seaward. 

“Captain” I shouted, 

“What’s that lad”, said the Captain.

“I can get a line ashore.” I pointed up, at the cliff edge.  “Up there, I’ll climb the shrouds. I’ll jump from the mizenmast and make fast a line”.

The Captain lifted his head and watched the swaying mast, then cast his eyes to the tattered shrouds and ratlines. He paused, thinking, assessing the risk, then issued his orders. “Away up the mast Hans”.

The story of The Hermann, a three-masted Danish Schooner, wrecked on the coast of Shetland in February 1900, is a remarkable one; characterized by bravery and humility. I was told the story by Rodney Smith, Skipper of the Mousa Boat

The story begins on Friday 2nd of February 1900. The Hermann shipped a cargo of coals at Wemyss in Fife, Scotland, and left there for Moss in Norway. During the crossing of the North Sea, the wind shifted to the southwest, becoming squally, with heavy showers of rain and wet snow. 

By Saturday 10th of February, when The Hermann was nearly at Moss, a very strong southerly gale was encountered, impeding further progress. The Hermann turned about and took Shelter off a headland, called the Naze of Norway. On Tuesday the 13th the weather worsened. The sea broke over the vessel repeatedly, while a blinding snowstorm raged overhead. On Wednesday and Thursday (14th and 15th of February) the weather got even worse with mountainous seas, threatening to engulf the ship at every moment. On Friday the 16th of February disaster struck! A succession of large waves capsized the ship, throwing her onto her beam. The crew, in terrible conditions, cut away the foremast, but she refused to right. The mainmast was then cut away and the ship regained her proper position. The sails however had been ripped to shreds and the vessel was utterly helpless to the wind. Over the next three days, The Hermann was driven before the storm, back across the North Sea to Shetland. 

By daylight on Monday the 19th of February the crew caught sight of the Bressay Lighthouse. The wind then veered North East and the vessel was driven south towards Mousa and Sandwick. The crew knew they were in terrible peril and that night, at 3am, The Hermann was wrecked on the rocks at Burraland.  Stuck on the rocks, below a 100-foot cliff, there appeared no means of getting ashore. One of the crew, however, a sailor called Hans Svendsen, devised a bold plan to save the day. He tied a line to his waist and climbed to the top of the mizzenmast. He watched for a chance when the vessel rolled towards the shore, and sprung from the masthead to the cliffs. Hans then made fast the line, and brought his crew mates ashore to safety. Just two hours later the ship went down in deep water.

The crew remained among the rocks on the shore til 7am in the morning, then found their way to the house of Mr George Smith, Pund, where they were cared for. Utterly exhausted the crew rested for three days and nights. On Thursday the 22nd of February Captain Odbersen and his crew went to Lerwick and the Captain made an account of the disaster to the Shetland Times. The story was published with the headlines “Wreck of a Danish Schooner at Sandwick” and “Marvellous Escape of the Crew”

It was this newspaper article, from 124 years ago that Rodney Smith of the Mousa Boat discovered and began sharing with passengers of the Mousa Boat. Rodney also made enquiries with a museum in Naxo, Denmark, where the schooner was from. The museum took an interest and managed to track down the descendants of Hans Svendsen, our hero. They were completely unaware of the story and his bravery. In a lovely ending to the story, the descendants of Hans Svendsen intend to make a visit to Shetland this year, to meet Rodney and the site of the wreck. 

If you’d like to meet Rodney, see the site of the wreck, and hear the story, told by Rodney, the Mousa Boat runs daily trips to Mousa at 11:30am, from Sandwick, Shetland. Our week-long hiking tours to Shetland also include Mousa, together with many other amazing islands and locations throughout Shetland.

Many thanks to George Ewen for the images.

Corrour Gold Reccy

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

For the team at Aspen, winter is a time for planning and doing reccies. A reccy (reconnoitre) is my favoured term for the joyous pastime of exploring a new area for the purposes of checking its suitability for clients, customers, and Duke of Edinburgh’s Award participants. To this end, foremost in mind are considerations like: Can we cross the rivers safely? What are the campsites like? What’s the ground like? Are the paths even there? Is it too difficult, or too easy for our intended groups?

Josiah Spong, Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Officer for Renfrewshire Officer, approached me in November with the idea of checking out a new 45km Gold Duke of Edinburgh’s Award route in Lochaber, an exciting loop starting and finishing at Corrour train station, taking in Loch Treig, Kinlochleven and Blackwater reservoir. A Gold Duke of Edinburgh’s Award expedition route is undertaken over four days, by a…

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Meall nan Tarmachan

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

The Meall nan Tarmachan ridge is a fine venue for a winter’s day hill walk. Twice now this season, I’ve been up there with groups, navigating on its intricate and complex terrain and practicing steep group movement skills, with ice axe and crampons.

Being based in Glasgow, finding a good winter venue not too far from home can be tricky, particularly in recent years when snow conditions have been lean. Meall nan Tarmachan however, meaning Rounded hill of the Ptarmigan, has a number of benefits. It has a high car park, at 450m. As long as it’s clear of snow, you can start high and save a good amount of time in getting to snowy slopes. The hill also has lots of interesting ridges and corries with different slope aspects, meaning you can find slopes that are less prone to avalanche risk.

This winter the prevailing westerly winds have…

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Foraging for food in Orkney and Shetland

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

Here are some edible plants I have been munching on up in Orkney and Shetland these past two weeks. Been guiding with About Argyll Walking holidays who run week long walking tours in the northern isles.

I have to say a big thanks to Dr Carol West for teaching me so much about plants last week. Carol – from New Zealand – is an ecologist and expert in managing invasive species. Thanks Carol.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale Asteraceae). You can eat the flowers, leaves and roots. Kinda bitter tasting though.

Scurvy grass (Cochlearia officinalis Brassicaceae). The heart shaped waxy leaves are very nice to eat and high in vitamin C.

Orache (Atriplex). The leaves are good to eat. Salty taste.

Chickweed (Stellaria media Caryophyllaceae). You can eat the flowers, leaves and stalks. Slightly salty taste, light and fresh. Saltiness may have been because…

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Tracks in the Snow

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

This blog is about animal tracks and signs in the snow. I have been building up my photographs over time and I think I’ve enough now share them. Most of them I am pretty confident about but others less so… I can’t distinguish between the tracks of a Crested Tit and Coal Tit for example so some of these are educated guesses. If you think I’ve made a mistake please do let me know. For each of the photos I have noted where I took the it and some interesting / identifying characteristics about them.

Thanks to Ian Pendry from Altitude Adventure for helping me identify some of these. Ian is an International Mountain Leader living and working in the French Pyrenees.

BadgerMeles meles

I am pretty sure this is a badger print. The photo was taken in Glen Lochay, to the west of Loch Tay on a snow covered…

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Making a Kishie

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

A kishie is a traditional Shetland basket made from plant materials.  Up in Shetland there aren’t many willow trees that are so useful in basket-making. That meant, in the past, Shetlanders had to craft baskets and creels from other materials like oat straw, soft rushes, docken, marram grass and even heather. This summer I was in Shetland and learnt about how floss (soft rushes) were used to make simmens (rope) and how, with straw or dockens, kishies were made to carry things like peat and fish.

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My father’s side of the family are from Unst, the most northerly isle in Shetland. My grandparents, auntie, uncles and my dad grew up on a small croft called Feall, on the side of a hill overlooking Haroldswick. Their life as crofters meant rearing sheep, digging peats, growing tatties and neaps, milking their one cow and walking everywhere: a hard life, but one that’s connected strongly…

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Hallival and Askival

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

It was time for a holiday. I’d worked pretty much every day in May and June and was looking forward to a short break out west, to the Isle of Rum.

Rum is in the Inner Hebrides, one of four islands that make up the Small Isles; with Eigg, Muck and Canna. Rum is the largest, highest, wildest and least populated of the Small Isles. At one time it was a sporting estate owned by the hugely wealthy George Bullough, but in 1957 it was sold to the Government and is currently in the care of Scottish Natural Heritage, protected and managed as a National Nature Reserve.

Our ferry journey was choppy. I’ve done this trip before and seen passengers, initially excited by the roller-coaster motion, slowly succumb to seasickness. Positioned in the middle of the boat we faired not to bad, but it was tiring nonetheless. The highlight of…

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Sgurr na Banachdich

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

Sgurr na Banachdaich is a 965m mountain on the Cuillin Ridge, the most dramatic, precipitous, technically difficult range of mountains in Scotland. Along its 12km length there are 11 prominent mountains (munros) and a further 26 separate peaks. Almost all involve scrambling on steep and exposed terrain to reach their summits.

Sgurr na Banachdaich, peak of the milkmaid or smallpox peak, is exactly halfway along the ridge and is perhaps the easiest mountain on ridge to do and a great introduction to the Cuillin.

This Friday, me and Shree – a client from Chicago – headed up from the Glen Brittle Youth Hostel, ascending via good path by a mountain stream called Allt a’ Choire Ghreadaidh. It was a warm sunny day with little wind and the beautiful clear pools in the stream looked very enticing. I spotted a bathtub shaped pool that would be great for a cooling dip…

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Springtime flowers

Aspen Outdoors Ltd

Over April and May more and more plants, trees and shrubs come into the flower. Up in the mountains purple saxifrage is among the first to come into bloom and in the woods, primroses, snow drops and wood sorrel flower early. In this blog I have listed some of the flowering plants, trees and shrubs I have come across in the last two months whilst out and about hillwalking and on Duke of Edinburgh’s Award expeditions. Most of the photos were taken in the Lomond’s of Fife hills and the countryside around Strathblane, north of Glasgow. One of my favourites is the periwinkleVinca minor with it’s propellor shaped petals.

Blaeberry Vaccinium myrtillus

European Larch Larix deciduaBluebellHyacinthoides non-scriptaimg_6519Colt’s-footTussilago farfaraimg_6527Loddon LilyLeucojum aestivumimg_6521Wood SorrelOxalis acetosellaWavy BittercressCardamine flexuosaGorseUlexWood Anemone Anemone nemorosaCookcoo Flower Cardamine pratensisYellow…

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